Our trip through Las Vegas hadn’t involved stopping, just
watching through the windscreen at people enjoying a very, very different kind
of holiday than our own.
We headed out the other side towards Lake Mead, created by
the Hoover Dam. Working our way around the South edge, looking for a free way
down to the water took us some time so we arrived at the lake after the sun had
gone down after a spirited rally testing out our new light bar. But we had
travelled into a desert, a hot, hot, hoooooooot desert. Even after a swim, we
were too warm again by the time we walked back to the van. Those dam donkeys
and heat did not result in a pleasant sleep.
A lazy morning with a refreshing swim/bath/laundry followed,
before setting off towards the Grand Canyon. Turns out the Grand Canyon is way
further than you’d think when you’re not in a helicopter, but we did get to do
a whole 5 miles of “The Historic Route 66” and somehow see our whole shadow
beside us before making camp near some pretty angry looking Elk. Along the way
an extremely kind German lady driving a Mustang asked if we were heading to the
Grand Canyon and then gave us her pass which had plenty of days left on it. How
she knew we were tourists we will never know. The altitude gained providing
welcome relief from the heat. We have been surprised again and again by how
much difference a couple of hundred miles or a couple of thousand feet can make
to the temperament.
The Grand Canyon lived up to its name, with around 5000ft
from the river to us it was sad our paper aeroplanes didn’t do better. We even
found Mr. Elk’s girlfriend hanging around near the toilets, and as always Westy
Rick posed for a photo.
An
early stop to allow for some recovery time proceeded our last day in America,
getting chores sorted in Flagstaff Arizona. We had our first encounter with an
obnoxious Ameriperson, who sat on their
f a saying “I don’t work on those” over and
over to the simple request to check the wheel alignment on the van, with no
rhyme or reason as his workshop sat empty at 11am on a weekday. If simple 80’s
German Engineering (or track rod ends…) is too much for him, it’s no wonder his
workshop is empty.
Another
night, another spot in the middle of nowhere. We found an app designed for
overlanders, ioverlander, where people add locations for boondocking, getting
drinking water etc. This will prove invaluable in less established countries
down the continent. Some stars came out, we were surrounded by cactii and a
toad came out of the sand.
Finally, we gather up some courage and head past Phoenix to
the border. Crossing was too easy (we forgot to stop for some paperwork), and
the contrast took us by surprise. America had begun to show plenty of Mexican
influence as we had driven south, but it was as much Mexico as Panda Express is
China. Everything changed, people selling everything and anything on the
streets, driving a lot less organised, and everyone staring at us gringos.
We’d gambled by crossing quite late (it was a long drive to
the border) but managed to get all our paperwork sorted, tourist permits and
temporary vehicle import stamp. We cracked on to the next down and settled down
in our first “RV Park” for security and simplicity. Our first street taco
dinner eaten and a hot sleep to the sound of trucks and barking dogs. Mexico
was already hot, but little did we know this was just beginning.
You’re going to look at the pictures, and not believe me
when I tell you how much less pleasant than it looks the beach experience was.
But when have I ever lied to you? We got to the beach early afternoon after a
day of driving, which was bearable with the windows down apart from the bugs
splatting off the wing mirrors onto our shirts. It was hot, but the wind was
blowing as we parked not on the beach (lessons learnt), but near enough to see
the blue ocean and freaky looking Turkey Vultures. Litter everywhere, all kinds
of litter, mostly the worst kinds. But looking past that, the ocean looked
refreshing as the gentle waves lapped the perfect sand. As we eagerly
approached that lovely water we were distraught to find it was warm bath
temperature; no help. The sun set, we showered and it finally started to cool
down. But then so did the wind leaving us in a still, humid, sweaty state of
frustration trying to keep away from mosquitoes.
But then it got a whole lot weird. A reach towards the front
of the van, something moved outside in the darkness, a figment of our
imagination, or a reflection perhaps? But we could have sworn someone was
walking away from right up close to the windscreen away into the shadows. Hopping
outside with a torch doesn’t lead to any discoveries, but we pack away
everything so we can drop the top and leave if required. Still not convinced if
it’s in our heads, we leave it 5 minutes and then suddenly flash on the main
beam and this time we are sure, a figure ducks away into the bushes again. A
more aggressive search yields nothing, this pervert is a pro, and so we drive
far along the beach and park within sight of a guarded resort unsettled and
uncomfortable. Not a great start to Mexico.
Our laundry bag is bulging, we don’t fancy the beach again, and
so the next day we head inland to a cheap hotel ($30/£19 per night) with secure
parking, friendly English speaking owner, washing machine and AIR CONDITIONING.
Much comfort was had, and stress levels reduced as we enjoyed our first wedding
anniversary exploring the lovely little town of El Fuerte. On our way over we
had tried to decide on what soft drink to have, followed a military pickup and
run away from a storm. We think Mexico needs newer games consoles since the military
camouflage pattern would stand out in anything past Playstation 2.
Our first exploration into El Fuerte was also our second
interaction with the Police. After turning onto the main road through the town,
we quickly realised we had turned the wrong way onto a one way road… crap.
Where were the signs? A kind pedestrian signalled the mistake, and we swung the
van round in front of an oncoming police pickup… he didn’t put the lights on,
we got away with….. nope. A bobby on foot waved us over.
He quickly picked up we didn’t speak Spanish, took my
license and said we could get it back at the station when we paid the ticket.
We didn’t dare argue, just sat with the guilty look like a puppy sat next to a
pile of poo and apologised. He asked when we were leaving town, and there may
have been a slight fib told when we said tomorrow (Sunday), which unfortunately
meant the police station wouldn’t be open for us to get the license back. An
awkward silence ensued, before the license was handed back and we were free to
go on our travels ticketless and free. They won’t all be that easy, but 2 for 2
is a good start. So long as we don’t bump into him Monday…
From here we head down the coast and then swing up into the
mountains. The temperature looks to be more manageable up there, and hopefully
the humidity less smothering. We haven’t seen any other gringos travelling like
us in vans, not even the big RVs. We’re told October is the busy season for the
migrating softies running from the cold. Oh what we’d give some a good dumping
of snow.
TOP TRAVELLERS TIPS
-
Don’t rely on others for travelers tips because
sometimes they might let you down
Someone fell asleep at the keyboard!
Entering every Mexican town there are “Topes”, bumps that
you wouldn’t want to miss. People taking advantage of you slowing down to try
and sell you something and the smell of street foods cooking away.
The fast toll roads are often mid construction, with one
side finished but only for 5km at a time, then switching over to the other
side. Can’t make sense of it, but certainly another reason to stay awake.
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